By: Urvat il Wusqa
With the arrival of the winter season in Kashmir, many traditional delicacies are prepared. One of among them is “Pherr” or “Smoked Fish”. When its appetising aroma fills the room, one forgets the harshness of the cold weather.
From ancient times people of Kashmir have been fond of smoked fish especially the elderly people of the downtown area of Srinagar. It is believed that Pherr provides energy to beat the harsh cold winters and helps keep the body warm.
The pherr is usually cooked with Kashmiri Hakh (collard leaves) along with many species that add to its flavour, the dish is popularly known as “Phari Hakh”. Many people love to have this dish with Nadru (Lotus stem), radish, and tomatoes. Before cooking the smoked fish, it’s outer layer is removed and then the fish is deeply fried and after that, all spices are added to make the fish becomes crunchy and spicy. Little water is added to it and it’s mainly served with the hot steamed rice.
In earlier times due to the shortage of fresh food in winters because of the closure of highways, people used to preserve foods through various methods. Smoking is one of the oldest preservation methods. But in modern times when there is the availability of fresh foods in the market smoking is still used as a process to enhance the flavour and taste of the Kashmiri fish (Kasher Gaad) which is itself known for its quality.
The process of making smoked fish requires the efforts of many people and is quite interesting in itself. The fish are first caught usually from the Dal Lake then the women who are experts in cleaning it, wash and remove its internal organs. After washing the fishes are laid down on the wild dry grass interwoven loosely shaped in the form of platforms and then dried for a while after which the grass is been torched to smoke the fish on it.
When the fish becomes reddish-brown in colour and are properly smoked these fish are collected in a wooden basket and then sold in the market.
It used to be a good source of income for the fish sellers. But with changing time its demand has decreased due to various factors like changing food choices of the young generation. Still, some families have kept this culture alive.
Sultan Ahmed Tiploo resident of Anchaar Soura has been doing the business of smoked fish for decades. Even if many taboos are related to doing this trade but he never pays attention to them. “Young generations are reluctant to do this business as they feel that they will be looked down on if they will continue doing it”, Tiploo said.
Tiploo mentions that the material used to make smoked fish is also getting costlier day by day, especially the grass because they can’t use ordinary grass to make it.
Sultan along with his family members strives hard so that this culture would not die but due to the changing lifestyle, this culture along with many traditional delicacies are dying day by day.
“The sales of these fish are getting down but some people are still fond of this dish. And till there are people who love this dish, we will continue to make it”, Tiploo said.
